I found myself scarcely believing where I was or what I was doing. I had only met this man the day before, sharing with him the more salient parts of my life story and my values, in broken French. I knew nothing about him other than he was recommended by one person for tattoos on this island. The only instructions I gave him for the design were to use traditional Marquesan symbols to interpret that story and those values as he saw fit. Now, I was past the point of no return, having placed my confidence in his art. He told me yesterday that he wanted to think about what I had told him, and draw out a design for the next morning, when we had arranged to meet. I had expected him to present me with such a drawing, for my approval, but he did not. He had a sketch showing the upper and lower borders, and only one of presumably several motifs. But he said nothing about his plan, and I asked no questions. Having seen this done on another island recently, I also expected that he would draw out the entire design on my arm before starting to ink it in. He did not do this either, but only drew a few guide lines. I had made up my mind to accept what he created, and he began.
Having heard several other cruisers describe their experience with local tattoos, I expected only a little discomfort. I have a pretty high pain threshold, but the process was surprisingly painful. The outside part of the armband wasn’t too bad, but I was all too happy when he finished the part on the inside of my upper left arm.
Robyn and I both felt immediately yesterday when we met Daniel, that he was the right person, and this was the right time and place. We had talked about Marquesan tattoos for over a decade, ever since we were here last. Tattoos originated in Polynesia, and many people consider the Marquesan tradition the best, being highly stylized and symbolic. Art, per se, is all well and good, and some tattoos are high art, but I’ve never been interested in being a canvas. It is the symbolism that appeals to me. Anyway, we chickened out back then, but decided that if we found the right person, we would do it this time. Getting a tattoo was totally out of character for me. I have never understood why someone would do that. Now I do, at least for me.
So, now it’s done, and I’m pleased with Daniel’s interpretation. The upper border of the armband represents mountains, which have been a major factor in my life. The lower border represents the sea, of obvious significance. Around the band are five major motifs, each separated by a repeated small one representing sea foam. One motif traditionally represents a good spirit looking down from high above, seeing all, or for me, the time I spent as a pilot. Another represents family. Another, a tortoise, which is found everywhere around the world. A manta ray is flying through the water as I sail over it, and last is one representing me as a navigator.
I should say something about Daniel Naudin himself. We were extremely lucky to stumble on him, as he is one of French Polynesia’s premier artists. Having traveled widely, he combines traditional and modern ideas and methods from around the world. Mostly traditional in orientation, though, his wood and bone carvings are extremely intricate, ranging from large furniture pieces to tiny jewelry. He is widely renowned for those carvings, and has has been invited to submit works to an exhibition of French Polynesia’s master artists. He has received commissions from heads of state. He was selected to build the major structures for a regional exhibition site. His house and grounds could serve as an art gallery. Leafing through photo albums of his work simply left us in awe. More locally, he is the man to see for a tattoo on Ua Huka, which is where I came in. Besides all that, Daniel is a really cool guy, very friendly, and has a great sense of humor. Meeting him is the high point of our voyage thus far.
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