Ureparapara is unique in my experience. The island consists of a single volcanic cone with one section blown out, forming a harbour ringed by towering walls. It is also the most remote of the Banks group of islands, which is one of the two most remote groups of islands in Vanuatu. Fortunately, the entrance faces nearly perpendicular to the trade winds, so neither much wind or swell penetrates.
The people in this settlement, as in others similarly distant in the supply chain, have come to see yachties as a source of goods that are otherwise unobtainable. We understand this, and have come stocked with various goods that they might need or want, such as used clothing, vegetable seeds, fishing hooks and line, etc. It’s a good arrangement. We need fresh food, and an occasional souvenir. They need what we bring. Most of the time, we trade. Sometimes, if we’ve developed friendships, it turns more into giving gifts on both sides. The people here were unexpectedly generous with produce, and we reciprocated in kind. One of the men here still uses a sailing rig on his canoe, so we left another defunct sail for him to refashion.
In the two years since our last visit to Vanuatu, the use of solar panels, 12-Volt batteries, and cell phones has proliferated, partly due to the decrease in price of such panels. The people here did not grow up with any kind of technology, though, and they do not have a clue how it works or how to take care of it. I am repeatedly asked to check their batteries and panels (the former being flat), and I invariably find the panel size to be inadequate, leading to consistent undercharging, and all too often, ruined batteries. I gave a presentation here about panels, batteries, and such, but it seems that without any familiarity with any kind of science or technology, the people are not prepared to understand even simple (to me) technical concepts. They are intelligent people, and they hold a wealth of knowledge about and skill in using their environment, but there is no shared basis of experience and knowledge to build on.
Chief Nicholsen, head of the village here, asked us if we could make a promotional video for them, featuring local women performing “water music”. Of course, we agreed, with the caveat that we are only amateurs. I will upload it to YouTube when I find the opportunity, then post link here.
We’ve had every anchorage to ourselves for a couple of weeks now, ever since leaving Luganville. Our old friends Mark and Susan, on the boat Erie Spirit — they come from the Lake Erie area of Ohio — came in here right behind us, though, and we have really enjoyed their company. We actually shared the next several anchorages with them, as I hope you will read in succeeding posts.
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