LAKONA BAY FESTIVAL

We had only been to one other festival in Vanuatu, in Vureas Bay on nearby Vanua Lava two years before.  It was colorful and exotic to us, and we have very fond memories of it and the people there.  There are other, much more elaborate (and both more publicized and more expensive) festivals in Vanuatu, though, of which we had only seen pictures and heard stories.  Our expectations, then, in such a remote and less traveled place, were modest, based on our limited experience.

Well, were we ever surprised.

The morning of the first day, we were met on the beach by hostile warriors wielding clubs and bows and arrows.  After an initial threatening display, a chief came down holding a tabu leaf (a symbol of his authority), called off the warriors, and escorted us up to the festival grounds where we were welcomed with song and flowers by the entire village. 

Festivals in Vanuatu are typically spectator affairs, but not this one.  There were activities in which we could participate, such as a bow-and-arrow competition and a tug-of-war between married men and single men.  We got to paddle in a dugout-canoe race, one yachtie and one local in each canoe — Robyn’s canoe won!  Besides the activities, there were demonstrations of traditional cooking and weaving.  There were magic shows (pretty well done, even if not believable).  Mock war and peace making.  A mock wedding ceremony.  Lots of high-octane bamboo-band music.  Traditional “water music”.  And eye-popping custom dances.  All of this was terrific, but the dances were the highlight.

We had arrived a few days early (actually, our second visit there), and had already gotten to know a number of the people, including the head chief, John Starr, and the anglican minister, Father Levi.  The latter was the organizer for this year’s festival, and he deserves a great deal of credit.  Being known somewhat already, and having some modest ability speaking Bislama — English is not a strong point here — Father Levi announced that I would be his liaison with the yachties.  Oh, joy.  Robyn could have done just as well, but it is a male-dominated culture.  Anyway, the job didn’t amount to much, other then taxing my language abilities, but they did present me with a gift at the end of the festival, a walking stick carved with a seahorse motif.  Cool!

I have numerous video clips from the festial, as well as a short movie that I made, but I have not been able to upload any of them from here.  If and when I succeed with that, I’ll put links on the blog.  But it’ll have to be just still shots for now.

From here, we made the short crossing back to Vureas Bay on Vanua Lava for their festival, and the next blog entry.

Father Levi (center), the Anglican Minister

One of the Spirits

Dugout-Canoe Race

Bamboo Band

Archery Competition

Traditional Cooking Demonstration

Chief Starr demonstrating weaving thatched roofing

Robyn loves to dance

Men's Dance

Chief Starr and Me

Robyn also loves baskets

Traditional dugout canoe

Village Men

Village House

Men's Dance

Open, Friendly People

Men's Dance

More Spirits

Bamboo Band

Basket Weaving Demonstration

Men's Dance